When we were designing our house, it was important to us that we had room to welcome others. From an extra bedroom to a big dining room table, we always wanted to have room for one more.
However, in order to have room for one more, our existing table, which barely fit the five of us, needed to be replaced. After searching far and wide for the perfect table I realized that it didn't exist. Or, if it did, it cost way more than what we wanted to spend. Have you seen the cost of dining room sets lately? Whew.
Lucky for me, my husband had his heart set on making us a dining room table. I was more than happy to turn the assignment over to him. (and this is where I turn the blog over to him, as well!)
Farmhouse Table Plans
Materials
9- 2x6x8 3- 4x4x8 5- 2x4x8 2" pocket hole screws 2- 1/2" x 3' oak dowels (or you can use a biscuit joiner or one of 100 different methods of joining wood together) Wood glue
Wood filler Pre-stain (wood conditioner) Wood stain (we used Provincial)
Polyurethane
Tools Used
Drill
Kreig Jig (To create pocket holes)
Pipe Clamps
Miter Saw
Router
Palm Sander
Sandpaper (60 Grit, 100 Grit, 220 Grit, 400 Grit)
Jointer
Circular Saw
This type of table can be made a lot of different ways but we made it, to fit our needs, using the tools we had on hand. As a bonus, there will be very little lumber wasted at the end of this project. Feel free to adjust any sizes to fit your needs. All of the lumber used is simply construction grade lumber you can get at any Lowes or Home Depot store. That keeps the cost of this project very low.
To start, we picked out the straightest lumber we could find at Lowes. Its a difficult task because it seems like only one out of every 10 boards is actually somewhat straight.
We ran all the 2x6's through the Jointer to get rid of the sanded curve that is in that type of lumber. That will allow the edges to come together without any gaps. A table saw could also be used in a pinch to accomplish this task. You only want to run it through just enough times to make a sharp 90 degree edge.
Next you will be gluing 8 of the 2x6's together. We kept them at 8' so you we did not have to cut anything just yet. If you have a biscuit joiner, now would be the time to put some in the sides to strengthen the joint. Its not completely necessary as the frame will support the weight This is also the most time consuming part as I glued each of them individually and allowed 24 hours between the boards. After you have all 8 glued together you can cut the final 2x6 in half to be used a your bread board. I used a circular saw with a long ruler attached with clamps as a straight edge guide and cut off about an 1/8th of a inch to make everything even and then attached the bread boards. I added 3 - 1/2" oak dowels to the bread boards since they hang completely over the frame and wouldn't have any frame to support them. It increases the strength of the joint exponentially to add them and I feel more comfortable lifting the table by the end to move it.
The frame is relatively simple to put together. We used an overall height of 29 1/2" which is a comfortable height for most people and will fit a standard size dinning room chair perfectly.
Cut 4 - 4x4's to 28".
Cut 2 - 4x4's to 40"
Cut 2 - 2x4's to 89" - Run the top edge through the Jointer
Cut 2 - 2x4's to 33" - Run the top edge through the Jointer
We used a table saw to cut a groove 3 1/2" wide and 1 3/4" deep, 7" from the base of the leg of all of the legs. A router could also be used for this step.
Take the 40" 4x4's and cut a matching groove at both the ends so they have a precise fit in the table legs. Make another groove in the top middle of that support board 3 1/2" wide and 1 1/2" deep. Its extremely important that both sides match up EXACTLY or the 2x4 that drops in the groove will not fit. Do this to both ends of the table. We then glued those joints together.
Using the Kreig Jig, add pocket hole screws to the inside ends of the 89" 2x4's and attach them to the top middle of the legs. Do the same with the 33" 2x4's.
Add at least 3 cross supports equally spaced and attach with the pocket hole screws.
Your frame is complete. Add pocket holes to the inside top of the frame for attaching the top. Do not attach the top just yet.
Add wood filler to any holes or cracks and sand both the top and the frame starting with the 60 grit and working your way through each grit until you are using the 400 grit.
Use a wood conditioner/pre-stain on all surfaces, otherwise your stain may end up splotchy.
Stain all surfaces with your stain of choice.
Apply at least 3 coats of polyurethane to the top and at least 2 to the bottom. Lightly sand with 220 grit in between coats to ensure proper adhesion. Move the frame and the top into your house and finish assembling the top to the frame.
You just saved yourself a ton of money and will now have a gorgeous table that will last for generations!